On this page, we try to include as many of your most frequently asked questions as possible in one list, sorted by product category. Many answers will also refer to the appropriate product page or the corresponding knowledge base article, where you can find even more extensive information about the products in question.
Glide nails are hard plastic glides that you attach to a furniture leg with a nail or screw. They ensure that chairs and tables slide smoothly over the floor, especially carpeted floors. Felt glides have a soft felt bottom, ideal for smooth floors. They also protect delicate floors, such as laminate or parquet, from scratches.
Glides with nails are easy to mount and suitable for soft to medium-hard wood types. For hardwood or intensive use, a screw fastening is more durable, as the glide will remain more securely attached.
Measure the diameter of the furniture leg and choose a glidethat fits well within this size. The larger the possible size, the more the load-bearing capacity is distributed, and the longer the gliders will last.
Yes, there are various shapes available on the market. However, we mainly have round glides in our assortment, as these are quite universally applicable to all shapes of legs.
In addition, there are even glides for tubular frame legs. For tubular frames, there are insert or wrap-around glides that fit precisely into or around the leg. You can find these under insert caps, wrap-around caps and sled base glides.
Place the glider directly under the leg and carefully hammer or screw it in. For hardwoods, it's wise to pre-drill a small hole to prevent the leg from splitting.
That depends on the floor and the extent of use. Check regularly that the felt has not worn out and replace the gliders as soon as bare patches are visible. This prevents scratches and wear and tear on the floor.
Insert glides are plastic caps that you press INTO a furniture leg, tube frame or other type of tube end. The chair leg cap variants protect your floor, prevent wear and tear on the leg, and provide a neat finish. In addition, caps can also be used as decorative finishes or protective end caps. Examples include curtain rods, bicycle frames, garden fences, wardrobe rods, trailer frames, and awning casings. You name it, if something is made of tubes, there is often a cap to finish it off with.
Tube inserts are available for most tube and chair leg shapes. The most common are round tube inserts and square tube inserts, and these are also the most used tube shapes for furniture. Because these are the most commonly used tube shapes, the most different variants are also available for them.
In addition, there are rectangular tube inserts and tube inserts for flattened oval tubes. These also occur in furniture constructions, but these tube shapes are more often used in support structures than as legs. The flattened oval model should not be confused with ellipse. The latter shape is truly a rarity, and few sizes and variants are available for it.
Although some dealers use the inner dimension, we adhere to the most common industry standards for sizing: the size in the cap's name is equal to the outer dimension of the tube.
By far, most caps in our assortment are suitable for tubes with wall thicknesses ranging from 1.0 to 2.0 mm. However, some of our caps also come in multiple versions, including those for thicker wall thicknesses that can range from 2.0 to even 5.0 mm. Therefore, in addition to the outer dimension, always pay close attention to the hole dimensions to see if the cap will fit.
If the external dimension does not match, then primarily rely on the hole size. If a cap still cannot be found, you can always contact us (010-412 42 16 or info@pootendop.nl) to ask if we might be able to find the right size for you.
Yes. Choose a chair leg cap with a felt disc for parquet, laminate or PVC. For carpet or rough floors, a hard glider sole is more practical.
Yes, provided you choose the correct sizes. The lamellae on the shaft (the ribs on the part that goes into the tube) provide clamping force and make the caps suitable for a wide range of hole sizes; for steel tubes, it helps to sand off burrs to get a tight-fitting cap
Align the cap directly over the opening and press firmly by hand or gently tap with a rubber or plastic mallet. Do not hit at an angle; this will shorten its lifespan.
Replace them if there is visible wear and tear (especially when the cap is worn down to the tube), if they are loose, or if the felt (on felt caps) has worn off. This will prevent scratches and noise.
For example: Domed caps, which can be used as chair leg caps, but also as decorative finishes, ball joint caps (for slightly angled legs), extra thick bases for intensive use or for rough floors such as patio tiles, or threaded inserts (see next questions)
Threaded inserts are insert plugs that incorporate a thread or an injection-molded nut. They are used to create easily replaceable attachment points (e.g., for wheels, legs, or accessories) without damaging the underlying material or having to cut new threads each time.
We have threaded inserts in round and square versions. Additionally, they come with different thread sizes, M8 and M10. For now, they are only available in black.
Since threaded inserts are essentially insert caps with additional functionality, the same applies here: the dimension in the name of the insert is the outer dimension of the tube into which it should be pressed or tapped. The thread size depends on the thread thickness of the component you want to screw into it later. So, if you choose an adjustable foot with an M10 thread, you will also need the threaded insert with an M10 thread. For example, for a castor with an M8 threaded pin, an insert with an M8 thread is required. Finally, also pay attention to the hole size of the tube and check the specifications of the desired insert to see if it will fit into that hole.
Plastic furniture legs and feet are mainly used under sofas, armchairs and couches. They provide a stable base and can significantly influence the seating height and appearance of a piece of furniture.
Yes. These legs are designed to support the weight of heavy seating. With the exception of the adjustable legs, all plastic legs have a point pressure load capacity of 500kg/piece or more. This applies when stationary; when furniture is moved, lateral pressure is also exerted against the leg. In that case, you should consider that the leg can only withstand half or even less of that capacity. It is therefore advisable to always lift a sofa instead of sliding it.
So whether it's legs for a sofa or feet for an armchair, there are always suitable options.
There are low and high furniture legs, usually ranging from 1.5 to 13 cm. You can choose from round, conical, or block-shaped models. There are also adjustable legs, with which you can easily compensate for small height differences.
Measure the height of your current legs under the furniture and decide whether you want to maintain or adjust the same seating height. Also, check whether the attachment works with a mounting plate, screw, or threaded pin (M6, M8 or M10), to ensure that the new leg fits properly.
Most furniture legs are attached with screws (slotted or Phillips head) or bolts (hex head). Other models have an integrated threaded rod, allowing you to screw the leg directly into the furniture, either adjustable or fixed.
Yes, in the vast majority of furniture, that's possible. With new furniture legs or sofa legs, you can easily repair or refurbish a piece of furniture. Check the size and type of attachment beforehand to ensure the new legs fit perfectly.
Plastic legs for a sofa or armchair often have a smooth bottom and are therefore safe for most floors. For extra certainty, if a piece of furniture is often moved, you can add felt pads or floor protectors, or anti-slip rubber if a piece of furniture moves easily and this is precisely not the intention.
No, we only have black furniture legs in our collection. However, there are different designs. Most legs are smooth plastic, while others, for example, have a wood grain finish.
Always measure the outer diameter of the tube or leg onto which the cap will be placed. The cap must fit snugly over it. If the cap is too loose, it may slip off or wear out faster; if it's too tight, you may have difficulty fitting it. The product description specifies the exact tube size for which the cap is suitable.
Tube end caps protect floors from scratches and wear, prevent dirt or moisture from entering tubes, and provide a neat finish for furniture or constructions. They are commonly used under chairs, tables, shelving units, and metal frames.
Most inserts are made of PVC, some of harder polyethylene (PE) or polypropylene (PP). These plastics are wear-resistant, flexible and resistant to temperature differences, which means they can be used both indoors and outdoors. Some caps also have felt added for extra gliding.
Yes, most end caps are weather-resistant and suitable for outdoor use. They protect metal tubes from rust and prevent water or dirt from entering the tube. The type of use is important for the choice: if the caps are used as feet on a rough floor, such as gravel tiles, it is better to choose a heavier cap variant if available.
Ensure the tube is clean and dry. If necessary, lightly warm the cap with hot water or a hairdryer to make the material more pliable, then firmly press it over the tube. For larger sizes, a rubber or plastic mallet may be useful.
If the cap is too loose, you can wrap a thin layer of tape or shrink wrap around the tube for extra grip. If it's too tight, check if you've chosen the correct size. In some cases, briefly immersing the cap in warm water can help it fit more easily. Because you are sealing the tubes, the caps may sometimes also be difficult to slide over the tube because air cannot escape. You can facilitate the sliding with a little petroleum jelly or soft soap.
